This was an absolute WHOPPER of a day - the most elevation gain I've ever done! Weather was nothing short of breathtaking the entire time. I even nailed the route dead on, except for some fumbling around on the rock glacier/Bombardment pass.
Traveling over Bombardment Pass on the way in, I thought it would be a good idea to get onto the ice/snow right under Korohusk. Well, yes, that would've been a good idea... With spikes! I had nothing, so I went full caveman and used a sharp rock to chop steps for myself.
It took me just over two hours from the Peter's Creek crossing to the summit of Rumble. The gully was an absolute slog, and the 4th class step out of it would have been far more interesting in wet weather. There's algae on them rocks!
Coming back over Bombardment was the real test. I was totally worked by the second time I came over! And this time I opted to descend the scree further toward Pleasant instead of chop more steps. Good idea. I now know that most people use a far easier and sneakier way around the rock glacier... Next time!
Morning in Ram Valley. Rock glacier/Korohusk/Cumulus on the right.
Skybuster/Ice Cream Cone seen from Mt. Significant, January 2019. LONG lens! I remember the first time I saw it. Eastbound on the Glenn, just before passing Kings Mountain and Chickaloon, on a clear, flat section of road, I happened to glance south, and there it was, standing tall in the distance. I couldn't take my eyes off, and couldn't help but wonder: did that insane tower of rock have a name, and what would it be like to stand on its incredible, precipitous summit? Since I wasn't driving, I easily answered the first question with Google. That inspirational behemoth was named Skybuster. Answering the second question, however, would have to wait. Several years and lots of beta gathering later, it was time to try. Since the peak is so remote, it seemed a good idea to make this our first fly in approach. With excitement and some apprehension, we loaded up at Merrill field and flew (choppered!) out. WOCKA WOCKA WOCKA Sitting in t...
Ridge conditions November 2018. Point 3920 on left, Indianhouse NW ridge on right. I 'd attempted this ridge last November, but a late start and general unpreparedness saw me turning back at the first gendarme. I vowed to return, and almost exactly a year later, I found myself parked at Fall's Creek and hiking up point 3920. This time, it was 8am, and I had ice tools and a rope. Top of 3920, looking towards Indianhouse. First gendarme is center left. R eaching the top of point 3920, I clipped on crampons and took out the tools. After descending to the ridge proper, I quickly made my way to the top of that first gendarme, encountering light mixed climbing on the way up. At the top, I surveyed the options. A rappel was pretty much mandatory from here - downclimbing would have been nutty and I had, after all, lugged 60m of 9.4 all this way... Maybe I need to invest in a lighter rope ;) Using the tools...
Troublemint Southeast Ridge 20.66 Miles / 10:16:38 / 5950ft gain T his was one of those days where I remained indecisive 'til the very end - I wanted an easy approach, no shwack, and something I hadn't climbed before. Hurdy Gurdy seemed like a good idea, but when the day dawned with plenty of smokey haze from the Kenai wildfire, I decided to set my sights further north. I figured I'd try one of the Mint peaks. The approach, Gold Mint trail, fit the bill as an easy, runnable approach, and the distance from the Kenai (hopefully) meant less smoke. The problem was which peak? After a quick look at Peakbagger, I decided to aim for Troublemint... Although the truth was, I didn't mind climbing whatever seemed possible and appealing upon seeing it. I was on the trail and running towards Mint Hut just before 7am. The brush was remarkably dry, and miles passed quickly and pleasantly. Visibility was awesome, and I had a few good glimpses o...
Comments
Post a Comment