Ridge conditions November 2018. Point 3920 on left, Indianhouse NW ridge on right.
I'd attempted this ridge last November, but a late start and general unpreparedness saw me turning back at the first gendarme. I vowed to return, and almost exactly a year later, I found myself parked at Fall's Creek and hiking up point 3920. This time, it was 8am, and I had ice tools and a rope.
Top of 3920, looking towards Indianhouse. First gendarme is center left.
Reaching the top of point 3920, I clipped on crampons and took out the tools. After descending to the ridge proper, I quickly made my way to the top of that first gendarme, encountering light mixed climbing on the way up. At the top, I surveyed the options. A rappel was pretty much mandatory from here - downclimbing would have been nutty and I had, after all, lugged 60m of 9.4 all this way... Maybe I need to invest in a lighter rope ;)
Using the tools, cause I had 'em and hooking around was fun.
More hooking fun. It's like having an extra long robot arm.
Rappel off the first gendarme.
Coiling the rope after my second rappel.
After rappelling 50-60ft, I set off on the rest of the ridge, encountering similar basic mixed climbing. Eventually I reached another, much shorter rappel, which proved to be the last rappel needed. It was getting close to noon at this point, and snow conditions had been taking a gradual turn for the mushy. I became aware of how short November days are, opting to traverse around the last few gendarmes before reaching the actual mountain.
Typical travel between gendarmes.
Steep snow. I used a lot of knee work to avoid plunging deep with every step.
Once I attained the side of the peak, it was a simple climb up steep, variable snow all the way to the summit. I spent a few moments, then proceeded down the standard main couloir route, where I traversed back down to Fall's Creek. Yay for a new way up a familiar peak!
Summit selfie. You can see my footprints in the center. A bit shocked to see no other prints up there!
A nice day above the fog!
Looking back toward the Suicides and point 3920
Indianhouse West Face in late afternoon light. NW ridge on the left.
The HDR Pro app works pretty well for harsh lighting conditions. Indianhouse west face.
Descending into the fog. It's only 3pmish and the sun is already bye bye :'(. More HDR Pro app.
Skybuster/Ice Cream Cone seen from Mt. Significant, January 2019. LONG lens! I remember the first time I saw it. Eastbound on the Glenn, just before passing Kings Mountain and Chickaloon, on a clear, flat section of road, I happened to glance south, and there it was, standing tall in the distance. I couldn't take my eyes off, and couldn't help but wonder: did that insane tower of rock have a name, and what would it be like to stand on its incredible, precipitous summit? Since I wasn't driving, I easily answered the first question with Google. That inspirational behemoth was named Skybuster. Answering the second question, however, would have to wait. Several years and lots of beta gathering later, it was time to try. Since the peak is so remote, it seemed a good idea to make this our first fly in approach. With excitement and some apprehension, we loaded up at Merrill field and flew (choppered!) out. WOCKA WOCKA WOCKA Sitting in the chopper at Merrill field. Fue
11.9Mi/6:10:41/3,724ft/Plus one 400lb boulder UPDATED 2020 - See bottom of page I woke up this morning not knowing that I was going to go scrambling, much less on Hidden Peak, much less try to connect the ridge between Hidden Peak/The Ramp. Interesting how plans for the day evolve, eh? Like 80% of my days off this summer/fall, the forecast called for rain showers. That means I wake up, make coffee, go back and forth from the computer to the window, and wait for the sky to reveal itself. It didn't look so bad! OK, I'm used to seeing this by now. Since it didn't look SO bad, meaning that it still looked SORT of bad, I decided to stay close to home and climb a peak that had so far slipped underneath the radar - Hidden Peak. Hidden Peak is connected to O'Malley via a ridgeline, and many a time at the O'Malley summit I have entertained the thought of continuing toward Hidden. But every time, it just looked too dang far to be bothered. Hmmph
Total Time - Just about 9.5 hours. 46 minutes biking in, 7:59:37 hiking, 46 mins biking out. Civic DX ready to roll! I left my house at 5:30 and was riding around Eklutna by 6:20. There was a lot of bear crap on the trail, so I did some extra "hey bear!" in addition to my two bearbells. After 10 miles, it was time to ditch the bike - but what was this? There were already some people here! A group of two declared their intention to climb Bold, and there was a group of three trying Bashful! Riding around the lake Trusty 9:ZERO:7 Whiteout with Bashful above! The two were still busy with gear, so I started walking with the trio, glad to have some company for what I had anticipated to be a very spooky (bear-ie) walk to Stiver's. Once we arrived, I bade farewell to the group and went on ahead. My Bashful Buds :) Things went great until I took a very ill-advised wrong turn, and ended up missing the alder tunnel and bushwacking through s
Comments
Post a Comment