10 miles bike, 10 miles foot, and 10 miles out on bike. Bonus avalanche activity and alder rappeling!
Bashful (left) and Baneful (right)
Ahhh - the beginning of a three day weekend. And what better way to begin than by scoping out some B name peak approaches? Given the nature of Chugach bushwacking, there's a high level of certainty that any given approach will have at least some routefinding errors, so it made sense to go get a taste of the "B Peak Area" before trying to summit its larger denizens. Baneful peak, a 5500' (ie "small") peak in the midst of this area, seemed the obvious vantage point. By 8am, I was riding around the shore of Eklutna Lake toward Baneful.
Bold peak peeking boldly. OK, kill me for that one.
Leaving my bike at the start of East Fork, I was pleased to find that trailside brush was still quite low. It was earlier in the season than I had ever been back here, and what is typically a dense jungle by July was only ankle high. Fine with me - the overgrowth can be quite wet in the morning, leaving you soaked and guessing how many bears it may or may not contain.
Not too overgrown at all!
This was also the first time I had continued past Stiver's gully, and thankfully the trail stayed distinct all the way to Tulchina Falls at 2.5 miles in. Once I reached Tulchina, I'll admit I had no real idea of where I was going, except that I needed to stay to the right of the falls and aim towards Baneful, which towered above to the right.
Tulchina falls
I started climbing just to the right of the falls, and by chance I immediately noticed an overgrown trail marked with orange ribbon. Following this was certainly easier than a straight up bushwack, although getting my ice axe to clear some of the branches was a challenge. After a while, I came to a mossy cliff and turned left.
From here, the indistinct trail got steeper and wetter, and I noticed some dangling fixed rope from years gone by. Finally, the trail narrowed to a nasty moss chute, and for once, I was thankful for the alder handholds.
Wackin'
Leaving the moss and alder behind, I began ascending a large field of talus on Baneful's south side. This got steeper and steeper, forcing me to choose a gully and scramble up some kitty litter style pebbles. I eventually came to cliffs and turned left, skirting beneath the steep ground and up onto the west ridge of Baneful.
South slopes and west ridge
The initial going on the west ridge proved an excellent, confident scramble. As is typical with the Chugach, it's really hard to tell how difficult something is until you're right up on it, and I'm pleased to say that this turned out to be good fun with minimal danger.
At the first high point in the ridge, I got a good view of the summit and travel ahead. There was some exposure to be had, but it stayed below perilous levels. All the same, I tested most of the more suspect rocks before weighting them, as being alone this far into the CSP warrants caution.
Exposed, but the wide angle makes it look worse than it is.
Finally, the ridge mellowed out into a big gentle field to the summit, and I quickly ascended to the snowy top of Baneful. From here, I was really hoping to get a good view of Baleful, the red spot glacier, and the east fork below to my right.
But no!
Clouds, lots of clouds. They had been present all day, shrouding the summits of Bashful and Bold. Baneful was no different. Everywhere I looked was cloud or hazy visions of trees, snow, and water below. From time to time there were breaks in the clouds, and I did catch a glimpse or two of Baleful. It looked positively menacing!
Summit socked in.
Only needed it a lil bit, and only then just to feel safer and keep hands out of snow.
It was warm!
All of a sudden, I heard a tremendous noise in the distance. Rockfall! Squinting through the mist, I caught sight of snow and rocks falling down the south side of Bashful. It was warm, and the mountains were shedding their winter coats. I was happy I only had minimal, shallow grade snow to cross. With the sound of rockfall a constant ambience, I backtracked my way down Baneful.
The views would have to wait.
Going back down through the alder trail, I had quite a lot of fun using the alders to rappel. This was probably the first time I had ever used this technique, and it worked awesomely. I also noticed, somewhat to my dismay, that the trail will indeed be quite overgrown in the coming weeks. There are Devil's Club plants all over it which have yet to grow leaves, although the thorns were still quite prickly...
Buttslide mania!
Raindrops are fallin on my... Helmet.
Rain showers moved in for my journey back to the car, and I got some sprinkles on both myself and my camera. It was warm, so I didn't mind in the slightest. I ended the day with a perfect evening ride around Eklutna, a great start to another summer in the Chugach.
Sunshowers on East Fork.
Pleasant, although my serious face says otherwise...
VIDEO
ROUTE STUFF -
Easy until you get to Tulchina, then a moderate bushwack/navigation crux until you break out of treeline. From there, climb the south side of Baneful and trend left to reach the west ridge. There's some exposure once you gain the ridge, but the going stays scrambly.
Skybuster/Ice Cream Cone seen from Mt. Significant, January 2019. LONG lens! I remember the first time I saw it. Eastbound on the Glenn, just before passing Kings Mountain and Chickaloon, on a clear, flat section of road, I happened to glance south, and there it was, standing tall in the distance. I couldn't take my eyes off, and couldn't help but wonder: did that insane tower of rock have a name, and what would it be like to stand on its incredible, precipitous summit? Since I wasn't driving, I easily answered the first question with Google. That inspirational behemoth was named Skybuster. Answering the second question, however, would have to wait. Several years and lots of beta gathering later, it was time to try. Since the peak is so remote, it seemed a good idea to make this our first fly in approach. With excitement and some apprehension, we loaded up at Merrill field and flew (choppered!) out. WOCKA WOCKA WOCKA Sitting in t...
Total Time - Just about 9.5 hours. 46 minutes biking in, 7:59:37 hiking, 46 mins biking out. Civic DX ready to roll! I left my house at 5:30 and was riding around Eklutna by 6:20. There was a lot of bear crap on the trail, so I did some extra "hey bear!" in addition to my two bearbells. After 10 miles, it was time to ditch the bike - but what was this? There were already some people here! A group of two declared their intention to climb Bold, and there was a group of three trying Bashful! Riding around the lake Trusty 9:ZERO:7 Whiteout with Bashful above! The two were still busy with gear, so I started walking with the trio, glad to have some company for what I had anticipated to be a very spooky (bear-ie) walk to Stiver's. Once we arrived, I bade farewell to the group and went on ahead. My Bashful Buds :) Things went great until I took a very ill-advised wrong turn, and ended up missing the alder tu...
11.9Mi/6:10:41/3,724ft/Plus one 400lb boulder UPDATED 2020 - See bottom of page I woke up this morning not knowing that I was going to go scrambling, much less on Hidden Peak, much less try to connect the ridge between Hidden Peak/The Ramp. Interesting how plans for the day evolve, eh? Like 80% of my days off this summer/fall, the forecast called for rain showers. That means I wake up, make coffee, go back and forth from the computer to the window, and wait for the sky to reveal itself. It didn't look so bad! OK, I'm used to seeing this by now. Since it didn't look SO bad, meaning that it still looked SORT of bad, I decided to stay close to home and climb a peak that had so far slipped underneath the radar - Hidden Peak. Hidden Peak is connected to O'Malley via a ridgeline, and many a time at the O'Malley summit I have entertained the thought of continuing toward Hidden. But every time, it just loo...
Thank you again Nate for yet another well documented scouting trip. I like the idea of hitting it early before the brush grows.
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